The son of restaurateurs, with a Vietnamese cook for a father, Léo Plusquellec (ex-Tempête and Les Têtes d’Ail) has finally found his groove: a small, lively bistro tucked along Rue des Blanchers, that nocturnal slip of a street linking Saint-Pierre to La Daurade. His spot, Mado – a nod to his grandmother Madeleine – is where the rising chef cooks up a gastronomic fusion, where Mediterranean flavors flirt with Asian influences, in a snug space with wood-paneled walls, inky blue tones and generously squishy armchairs. Come evening, it’s all about grazing and sharing: oyster mushroom tempura dunked in kosho aioli and ajo blanco; “arankimchi” – arancini stuffed with a gooey kimchi, halloumi and eggplant filling, dusted with furikake; fried chicken glazed with gochujang – so good it borders on indecent, served with crisp coleslaw and a cheeky shot of soju on the side; a satay-spiked tomato tartlet with a swirl of yellow pepper mousse and toasted seeds; before a hypnotic slab of miso-caramelized French toast with stewed apricot, a cloud of cream and slivered almonds, to seal the deal. · Marie Delcampo

FEELING THIRSTY? A tightly curated selection of natural wines, available in limited quantities to keep the lineup fresh year-round: Hibiscus, an Occitan red from Ferme des Magesses (€6 a glass), Pyjama Caaaaaaat, a gamay from Christophe Kaczmarek (€34 a bottle) and Sole, a chenin from Domaine de l’Écu (€37).

PRICE: Dish of the day €15, set menus €19-23 (weekday lunch), plates €10-15 (dinner and weekends).