Now that’s what I call a proper seaside bistro! An open kitchen perfuming the room with brown butter, just-the-right-side-of-chic decor (light wood, linen curtains), sea-bright light and, above all, the touch of John Valdez (the man behind the neighboring Placide fishmongers), guaranteeing first-rate sourcing. No unnecessary bells and whistles here, just pure, unadulterated Belgian classics, done properly and served generously. On our plates that day: Mediterranean-style anchovies to whet the appetite (and justify the first glass of wine); crisp shrimp croquettes, gloriously gooey in the center; then sole meunière glossed in brown butter, served with darn good fries and a welcome side salad; before a crème brûlée tart to land on a sweet note, the taste of the sea still lingering. · Barnabé Gueule

Feeling thirsty? A wine list that calls on the classics, like a pinot gris I Castelli (€6 a glass), a margaux Zédé de Labégorce (€45 a bottle) or a Burgundy chardonnay from Dampt Frères (€60).

Price: Starters €16-26, mains €24-38, desserts €14.