Fooding

In his den with waxed concrete floors, a ceramic bar and Pols Potten furniture, chef Julien Lemarié (ex-Gordon Ramsay in London and Troisgros in Tokyo) casts a spell over gourmet dinners with his unfussy surf ’n’ turf cuisine. The day we went for lunch, we succumbed to the magic of his striking, Japanese-influenced, prix-fixe menu (€30): a stunning tuna and veal tartare with spicy sesame...