A beacon of light near Place Dailly! Framing a low table surrounded by Eames chairs, Groseille’s illuminated storefront will sure have your mouth watering: it’s a glimmer of hope in the night. Beyond the narrow kitchen where Camille Cosnefroy (ex-Copain and Le Dillens) fires out plates like frisbees, the vast sand-colored dining room hums with a diverse crowd. And the cool, contemporary small plates up for grabs are anything but pedestrian: a really delicious radish tartare with tonnato sauce; finger-licking good squid beignets with an herbed mayo and lemony raw cream for dipping; delightful scallops flambéed with mezcal, served with marinated leeks, butternut squash and celeriac; happiness-inducing bass gravlax with a beetroot cream… Still want more? There are (slightly deflated) cream puffs stuffed with praline cream and topped with chocolate chili crisp for the grand finale! You’ll need it to muster up the courage to once again face the darkness of Chaussée de Louvain. // Toni Negroni

FEELING THIRSTY? A balanced selection of natural wines, ranging from Rotenberg, a deliciously democratic pinot noir from Vincent Stoeffler (€35 a bottle) to the appetizingly aristocratic Athénaïs chardonnay from the Château de Béru (€80), along with a few wines served by the glass (€7-8), plus Ermitage and Witloof beers (€3.50 to €6.50 for 330 ml), and rather fancy Ethylo cocktails (€13-14).

PRICE: Set lunch menus €24-34, plates €11-22, cheese platters €14, desserts €10.50.