Oooh what fresh fish! Tomoyasu Kamo, master of all things sushi and sashimi and the only Japanese man in the country with a Michelin star to his name, serves only the freshest fare from the sea. With a little rubber ducky printed on his t-shirt, the Japanese chef (ex-Tagawa in Tokyo) is also the owner of the classy fishmonger’s of the same name, which is a mere cast of a fishing rod away from the restaurant. This calm, serene setting oozes measured, sensual luxury without being uptight – at least, that’s how it felt from where we were seated at the wood and chrome counter. The lunchtime set menu featured: pillowy soft eggplant topped with brown miso minced chicken; diced bluefin tuna, floured then fried (a tad overcooked in our opinion) set on a stage of poached lettuce, with a sour shallot vinaigrette for added zing; flawless sashimi of Scottish salmon, Spanish red and lean tuna; fantastic shrimp, broccoli, oyster mushroom and (not in season) zucchini tempura stacked on a bowl of pearly white rice; or a more serious looking cohort of sushi (cuttlefish, red tuna, amberjack, turbot, salmon) and red tuna maki, this time sliced and combined with spring onion. Remember to book, as this fish tank is quite popular. // Rosa Poulsard

FEELING THIRSTY? The boss’s other passion is wine, and he’s put together a roster of big names – and the prices that go with them: Note di Bianco, a Sicilian grillo from Alessandro Viola (€8 a glass), a Mâcon-Chaintré vieilles vignes from Maison Valette (€82 a bottle), La Souteronne, an Ardèche Gamay from Hervé Souhaut (€64), along with sake, shochu and umeshu.

PRICE: Set menus €70-80 (lunch), menus €90 to €130 (dinner).