(In the voice of Phil Collins): “I wanna know, show them to me. Those natural wines who would be just like me….” To the uninitiated about to enter Jane, adjoining partner to the Tarzan wine bar (and more of a hive than a jungle with its honeycombed shelves), we’re told that “it might not be well known, but that’s not a big deal!” Dealing out sacred advice, nice guy Julien Colson and his squad prefer to say (and drink) it like it is: La Cabane, a perilous Ploussard from the Domaine de la Touraize, “best drunk in the company of good people”; Pied, a Loire Chenin by Baptiste Cousin; Les Saurins, a red Sancerre from Bernard Fleuriet & Fils, “if you want to make a lasting impression – and it’d be rude not to.” Now you know! // Rémi Nigaut

THE BULLET-PROOF BOTTLE: Les Maluseaux, a Loire Gamay bottled by Alexandre Giquel (€24.50).