So what was Benjamin Homsy’s (ex-Nénu) bright idea? To create a mixologist/raw food restaurant-bar. And he pretty much nailed it, from the tiled kitchen at the back of the brick dining room, where chef Luca Termine (ex-Crab Club, Kamo, Comptoir des Galeries) adds a few cooked dishes to his selection of tartares. Let’s take a look at this very original score that borders on kitsch: rice chips, daikon radish and bergamot that opened up the taste buds for what was to follow; a complex arrangement of rabbit beignets, slow-roasted red peppers, a thin line of creamy ricotta topped with fish roe and fried grey shrimp; a moving cuttlefish tartare enlivened by flying fish roe on a shiso leaf in a dashi broth, complemented by grilled cuttlefish and eggplant with miso, black garlic and (unnecessary) mixed greens; finally, a striking chocolate cream with raw shiitake mushrooms and a yuzu granita, to round out a performance that leaves you speechless. And for next time, duck tartare with slow-roasted leeks and pan-fried foie gras, or the very showy américain (steak tartare) supplemented with caviar (€30 extra). // Ringo de Balmalon

FEELING THIRSTY? Cocktails (€13-15) created by Édouard Silverhands, like the Saintes (gin, Pineau des Charentes, beetroot, cranberry, balsamic, rose and bitters), served as food and cocktail pairings (or not) with the menu; a Gard white from Mourgues du Grès (€6 a glass), an Anjou chenin from Mosse (€61 a bottle), Barry, an Ardèche red from the Domaine Ozil (€39) and three beers from the Saint-Gilloise brewery Beerstorming (€5).

PRICE: À la carte €47-61.