MALMÖ

Firmly docked to a corner of Rue du Châtelain, this briny bistro with nautical lamps and brick flooring whisks you out to sea via seafood and shellfish that’s been meticulously sourced by the talented Breton fishmonger Walter Dubois. At the helm of this ship is seafood connoisseur Guillaume Malmanche and a young chef from Paris, Jules France, (ex-Aux Deux Amis and D’une île). From their open kitchen equipped with a fishmonger’s stall, the duo sends out seafaring small plates to tables both indoors and out. The night we went, after nibbling on some pink shrimp and oysters at apéro hour, served with a duo of orange-ginger-sake and jalapeño-lemon vinaigrettes, plus sourdough bread and seaweed butter, we had some incredibly tender squid rings sautéed with chorizo and smoked oil; thinly sliced trout gravlax (which was a little too salty for our taste) on a bed of fennel and preserved lemon, all drizzled in dill oil; razor clams given a Japanese twist from sake-infused garlic and parsley butter, prepared as a siphoned sauce, which had us practically licking the plate clean; mouth-watering breaded hake sitting comfortably atop tartar sauce in a brioche bun; melt-in-your-mouth octopus over a carrot and sweet potato purée, seasoned with fennel seeds. We ended up skipping the lone dessert of the day (a financier with almond ganache) in favor of an honorable croquette made with grey shrimp from the North Sea. // Alba Nebbioli

FEELING THIRSTY? A selection of wines anchored by brewed beverages, including a few organic options: an Anjou chenin from the Château de la Roulerie (€7.20 a glass), Artesis, a Côtes-du-Rhône from Ogier (€40 a bottle)… Beers from Carlsberg (€3.80 for 250 ml) and St Hubertus (€4.60), plus cocktails (€14) and a selection of sakes (€6 for 40 ml).

PRICE: Lunch menu €21, oysters €20-26 (for a half dozen), shared plates €11-26, cheeses €14, dessert €10.