Despite its name, it’s hard to play it Calmos (or, cool) at this joyfully vibrant wine bar, where apéro hour almost always goes into overtime. Inside, you’ll find old parquet floors, a zinc-topped counter, Formica tables and a beautiful enoteca chosen by Serge Leblond and Marc Vermeersch, who are new recruits to the bistro game (one is a photographer, the other a graphic designer) and crazy about sulfite-free wines. Pierre Frick, Château Le Puy, Simon Rouillard, Il Farneto, Margò… Want some? They’ve got it! Pop a bottle open, with a €10 corkage fee, while nibbling on small plates (from €5 to €12) whipped up by Aline Gérard (La Table d’Aline), such as an artichoke and tuna mousse or some beautiful ricotta with sun-dried tomatoes. If it’s a little crowded, as is often the case, and provided you’ve got some travel wine glasses on hand, take your bottle to the nearby Place Morichar and watch the sunset to a backdrop of skateboarders. // Sam Oops

THE BULLET-PROOF BOTTLE: Somlo, a mix of Traminer, Turmint, Hárslevelű, Olaszrizling and Juhfark, by the Hungarian collective Holass (€31).