After the restaurant Õtap and Grain bakery, Paul-Antoine Bertin decided to take on fermented grape juice with Léopaul Robert! The gamble sure paid off, because three years later, Flagey locals come rushing to Rebel, their mini-cellar with a tiled bar, in the not-always-rewarded hope of nabbing a stool, a plate and a glass of wine. So, what’s there to uncork? Pépin Blanc, a Jura white from Kevin Bouillet; A l’Ombre des Jeunes Vignes en Fleurs, an Alsatian auxerrois from Yannick Meckert; Who Do U love?, a Georgian orange wine from the Ocho winery; or St Agathe, a Gard red from Sébastien Chatillon. And what about the snacks? The best in the business, with resident cooks – Marguerite Parent, Julie Caute, Daniel Morgan, Juan Pablo Rojas Pineda, and this time, Théo Léonard, whipping up: vitello tonnato, calf’s head croquette, radicchio and saffron mayonnaise, bonito, fava beans, aguachile and olive oil, white asparagus, brocoletti in a lacto-fermented broth with coriander seeds… from €9 to €18. // Mary Martin

THE BULLET-PROOF BOTTLE: Salzhof 2020 from Domaine Goepp, a marvelous Alsatian Riesling (€50).