Lunching at a pretty yellow guinguette on stilts? Count us in! Surrounded by salt marshes, La Grève stands out from all the other oyster dives. Here, oyster harvester Olivier Jauneau, his son Maxime and his son’s partner, Eva Patarin (the chef), serve up the sea: various kinds of oysters; platters of brown crab, langoustines, prawns and whelks; classic mussels marinière with golden homemade fries; lovely combos for happily indecisive customers, featuring palourde clams cooked in garlic and parsley butter, prawns flambéed in Cognac, mussels sautéed with chorizo and four intensely flavorful oysters prepared as ceviche with tangy mango. And before you hoist your anchor and set sail, it’s customary to heed the siren call of the plump cream puffs for dessert. Long live La Grève! // Jean Pascal  

FEELING THIRSTY? : A wine selection put together by Marée Haute, the local natural wine shop, where you’ll find a local organic white from the Domaine des Claires made on the Arvert peninsula (€4 a glass, €17 a bottle) or a biodynamic Pin’eau de Loère produced by La Famille Vaillant (€29). 
PRICE: : Oysters €16-19 for a dozen, plates €9-13, platters €14-81, kids’ menu €10.