Best Bar d’auteur of 2017
At Symbiose, docked to the Quai des Chartrons, it’s a game of ping-pong between Félix Clerc’s kitchen-laboratory and the evening bar run by three friends, Simon, Lucas and Thomas. You were expecting “cocktail pairings” à la Dersou ? Not quite. In their atmospheric den (mineral walls, an 1800 grandfather clock at the entrance, a wooden bar), these guys deal more with pea pod syrup, vials of veal stock, pickle brine or rooibos-infused (sous-vide) Pineau rosé. So many new ingredients that you could just as easily find in their beetroot velouté at lunch, as in their cocktails at night. Take one of their very culinary drinks, the Dulce Lecce yoga special, as an example: dark rum, a prune in Armagnac liqueur, milky Thai tea, yuzu, lime and their “golden milk” syrup — almond milk, pandan leaves, Timut pepper to dilate your blood vessels and turmeric for your joints! Otherwise, there’s a beautiful menu that includes old fashioned drinks with a twist, organic Vaillant Fourquet beers (€6-7 for 33 cl) and elaborate snacks: satay-marinated steak, guacamole with mango vinegar, burrata with an excellent olive oil…. Tapas €5-10. Cocktails €9-12, mocktails starting at €5. // D.N.