This marks something of a homecoming for Benoit Jarrige who was raised in the region, and then moved to the Alps to train under Jean Sulpice in Val-Thorens. Where exactly will you find his restaurant? Tucked away in the very medieval village of Monpazier, responding to the name of Le Croquant, a nod to a peasant revolt that occurred in the late sixteenth century. With help from his wife, Aurore, he serves simple fare that gets the job done right, in a space with a red facade and black and white checkered tablecloths. Served à la carte the day we went for lunch: very fresh haricots verts prepared as a salad with strawberries and an herb vinaigrette; a fat duck breast from Godard, served medium rare alongside carrot purée, spinach and potatoes sautéed in goose fat; before apricots with lavender and almonds, or strawberries with fresh goat cheese and thyme for dessert. // G.R.

FEELING THIRSTY? A selection of mostly Bergerac wines: Ça sulfit rouge, a red from l’Ancienne Cure (€6 a glass), Cuvée des Conti, a white from the Château Tour des Gendres (€27 a bottle), a Pécharmant from Barouillet (€25).
PRICE: Menu €17, à la carte €21-24.