And that makes four! After Fiskebar, Gä Nord and Dabba King, Nikolai Kovdal and Sen Kulanthaivelu speed-dialed their longtime partner-in-crime and master of fermentation, Julian Kappert, to help dream up this rather swish bar. Think mosaic tiles, exposed brick walls, original woodwork, bistro chairs, amber lighting… and stealing the show, a glass-fronted wine cellar stocked with the trio’s choicest treasures, like a rare 2019 Rossese di Dolceacqua red from Tenuta Anfosso in Liguria (€54). These are refined wines for discerning palates, matched with sharing plates that more than pull their weight: Gordal olives, Iberico paleta, veal tongue with salsa verde served on charming English china, a hunk of Funk bread slathered with ultra-creamy chicken liver mousse, and a plate of spätzle pasta doused in a homemade kombucha mousseline. · Coco Bianca