A canteen in Antwerp’s Zuid district? With the relaxed-chic crowd spilling over the corner terrace, the large, modern-but-not-too-modern dining room, and the little kitchen bar at Cantine, it feels more like the front row of a fashion show than your average neighborhood spot. And while the it (or, nearly-it) crowd sips spritzes and white wines, Nick Beerlandt’s (La Vie) nostalgic Mediterranean small plates go table-hopping – only to be snagged instantly by perfectly manicured fingers. The evening we went, we nibbled on: a lively pile of grilled Padrón peppers served with aioli; super-crispy shrimp croquettes with a bisque-style dip; a killer combo of asparagus, burrata and salsa verde; outrageously moreish fried artichoke hearts; and sweet potatoes that were crispy on the outside, fluffy on the inside, served with a tangy, spicy mayo. We could just as easily have fallen for the smoked vitello tonnato or the imposing américain (Belgian-style steak tartare) with a Lebanese twist and a tangle of matchstick fries. · Jean-Eude d’Aye-Quiry

FEELING THIRSTY? The “brave wines” they tout aren’t quite as daring as advertised… but dig deep and you’ll uncover a gem or two: an amphora-aged Zibibbo from Azienda Agricola Cos in Sicily (€75 a bottle), Nat’Cool, a cheerful Portuguese red from Espera (€48) or Hochar, a robust Lebanese wine from Château Musar (€65). There are wines available by the glass (€8-11), but we don’t recommend you go there.

PRICE: Snacks €7-15, sharing plates €11-29, desserts €12-15.