After a stint at Bart-à-Vin near Slachthuislaan, Sally Lauwers and Bart Gils have packed up their bottles and pans and headed for the Zuid neighborhood. Their new spot, the aptly named Krijt (“chalk”), is already earning top marks. Forget printed menus: here, the blackboard does all the talking, chalking up a daily list of dishes dictated by the market, the mood in the kitchen and the slow rhythms of terrines and stocks bubbling away in the background. Undoubtedly one of Belgium’s most under-the-radar chefs, Bart has the technique to impress and the good sense not to make a fuss about it: meltingly tender Kintoa pork coppa; lamb pâté with morels and wild garlic; French toast topped with rib eye and Old Groendal cheese; luxurious lobster and pig’s trotter vol-au-vents; a thoroughly decadent trio of rösti, beef tartare and Oscietra caviar; and a rhubarb mille-feuille to round off the feast. Top of the class! · Olive Oyl

Feeling thirsty? Sally has brought the world to the cellar with a wine list that knows no borders. With around thirty wines by the glass and more than 200 labels in total, it reads like a well-thumbed atlas for wine geeks: a sauvignon blanc made by Brussels-based winery Gudule (€9 a glass), SP 68, a Sicilian white from the wine magician Arianna Occhipinti (€69 a bottle) and a gevrey-chambertin Premier Cru Poissenots from Domaine Guillard (€112).

Price: Set menu €49 (Thursday and Friday lunch), mains €6-28, desserts €6-12.