After opening a wine shop & bar, she’s back with round two! A former wine importer on Swiss soil, the Swiss expat Stina Barras settled down high up in the Belleville neighborhood to pop open bottles at Coup de tête, the bistro run by Lorraine Sourdille, before both of them decided to take over the former Cent dix-sept. And regulars won’t be disappointed, because in this whitewashed space filled with vintage furniture, the duo has stuck with a naturalist tone with their lovely selection of 120 borderless labels – including a Gamay from Hervé Villemade (€6) and an Umbrian orange wine produced by Danilo Marcucci (same price) served by the glass the night we went. For the bottles, you’re free to choose them off the shelves, and pop them open in house in exchange for a €10 corkage fee in addition to the bottle price: an Alsatian Riesling from the Domaine Geschickt (€27), a pet’ nat’ from Trente produced by Matteo Furlani (€22)…. And to go with these beautiful juices, Pauline Longatte (ex-La Méduse) sends out eclectic small plates: anchovy and parsley pesto tartines, veal tartare with granny smith apples and sesame seeds, sea bream ceviche in tiger’s milk… // Ana Kirpad
THE BULLET-PROOF BOTTLE: The Austrian vintage Beck Ink, a blend of heirloom varietals by Judith Beck (€18).
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