With all the wine shops and wine bars that have overtaken the Saint-Ambroise neighborhood, lovers of low-intervention wines hardly know which place to choose! But this time around, what if you headed inside Chez Lui? In this cave à manger (bouquets of dried flowers, waxed tables, chairs with plenty of patina) named after the cabaret in the film Victor Victoria, Karima and Julien Pages are headlining the show with thirty-some spectacular wines. Here’s a sneak peek: P’tit Grobis, a Gamay from Nicolas Chemarin (€35 a bottle), Restons dark, an Alsatian sparkling wine from Kumpf & Meyer (€40), or even an Italian Trebbiano orange wine by Tiberi Vini Artigianali (€38). And to go with all that, the night we went? Burrata and pickled radicchio, pan-fried oyster mushrooms, aged Comté with notes of hazelnuts, sharp razor clams… In short, plenty to quench your thirst before the curtain falls. // Josh Piezcenik & Théodule Mollard

The bullet-proof bottle: SM, an Hérault white blend from La Sorga (€38).