Katia and Tatiana Levha, Le Guide Fooding 2019’s Women of the year
Will Tatiana and Katia beat the terrible Black Shadows gang? Find out in the next episode of their legendary Double Dragon saga! During which, not far from their precious Servan (Le Guide Fooding’s Best Bistrot of 2015), the Levha sisters have laced up their Air Max sneakers and are putting an Asian twist on the former sleepy neighborhood pizzeria. Reigning over this new hot bed of all things cool (unfinished walls, an open kitchen, a domino-esque bar, screen prints by Yue Wu), the black belt Antoine Villard (ex-Septime and Fulgurances) sends out some serious eats, starting at noon with a perfect 18€ menu: a summery spring roll with steak and purple shiso leaves; juicy crispy fried chicken on a bowl of rice with fresh lettuce, spinach and peanuts; before some watermelon strips that you dip into a mix of sugar, chili and salt, like a Tang powder. All throughout our lunch, which was made even better by a Singha beer (€4 for 250 ml) and green beans with sesame seeds and strips of dried sea bream (€10.50), we kept wanting more! Which is a good reason to come back at night, for something like chilled cucumber with lemongrass (€4.50), slow-cooked caramelized pork cheeks (€14), and kasawa coconut ice cream cake (€6.50), etc. Plus, there’s a beautiful selection of natural wines: a white Savoyard from Antoine Petitprez, a Pineau d’Aunis from the Domaine Vaillant (€6 a glass) or a Languedoc Peroraison from Guilhem Soulignac at the Domaine de Riberach (€30 a bottle). À la carte €22-36. // P.-H.B.