Jolyne

Spirit of the Levha sisters, are you there? Clearly good things always come in threes when it comes to Tatiana and Katia, winners of the Fooding d’honneur 2019 award, who have set up shop in a new bar near their iconic restaurants Le Servan (Le Guide Fooding’s Best Bistro of 2015) and Double Dragon, teaming up with Florian Frnka (who made the leap from Le Servan) in the process. Their one-of-a-kind watering hole goes by the name of Jolyne – a nod to both Dolly Parton and Josseline, the owner of the hair salon that once stood in its place. These days, you’ll find a windowed facade with sixties-inspired lettering, a dusty pink bar, dim lighting and, at the back of the room, a carefully-curated display of beautiful bottles, including 21 Centimètres, a gamay from the Domaine du Clair Obscur in Burgundy (€7 a glass, €42 a bottle) or, for those channeling their inner Gatsby, a Fleur de Savagnin from the Domaine de la Tournelle in the Jura (€95)… Other options that go down easy include a lager from La Brasserie Fondamentale (€6 for 330 ml), a kir made with Japanese apricot liqueur by Hôôbiden Anzushu (€10 for 140 ml) and even a glass of Troussepinette, a pine needle wine from the Vendée (€9 for 80 ml). Not quite apéro hour? From noon until midnight, they serve up coffee blends by L’Arbre à Café, alongside a selection of very normcore soft drinks (including… Orangina). All of which pairs beautifully with the house’s indulgent small plates, like pâté en croûte, pork rillettes or the Rochebrune plate featuring thinly sliced roast beef atop toasted bread slathered in Thai chili mayo. // Anna Elisabeth