Best Bistro of 2015
Katia and Tatiana Levha, Le Guide Fooding 2019’s Women of the year
Winner of Le Guide Fooding’s Best Bistro of 2015 award, this sophisticated bistro from the Levha sisters (Tatiana in the kitchen, Katia in the dining room) has a spicy partition, where Asian influences gently wrap themselves around the French terroir – and vice versa! The night we went, seated at the brass bar, we toasted while nibbling on tapas (clams in Thai basil and the house broth, €9; a breaded and fried soft-boiled egg with Russian salad, lardons and summer truffles, €16; gigantic roasted razor clams with bone marrow and shallot confit in a yakitori sauce, €15), before taking a seat at the table for more serious matters: incredible line-caught tuna belly from Saint-Jean-de-Luz, mi-cuit and glazed in soy sauce, served with creamy eggplant in a cherry laqueur (€28); a festive whole blue lobster with bisque, peas, onions and a scallop roe butter (€44); before a winning Paris-Brest (€9). To drink, there’s a reinvigorating selection: a white Bourgogne from Fanny Sabre (€7), Exilé Rouge, a Loire from Lise and Bertrand Jousset (€6), Véjade, a deviant and vivifying Rhone red from the Domaine de l’Anglore (€45 a bottle) or Le Feu, a white Gringet from the great Savoyard wine maker Dominique Belluard (€80 a bottle). Menu €28 (lunch), zakuski €9, à la carte €40-70. // O.J.