The Levha sisters relentlessly work their magic from Monday through Sunday inside this chic bistro decked out with mouldings, a painted ceiling, a brass bar and Baumann chairs. After working at L’Astrance and L’Arpège, Tatiana now alchemizes French cuisine with occasional Asian influences, while Katia watches over the diners and their wines. Served à la carte the night we went: ultra-tender brioche imbibed with smoked chili butter and dressed with raw sardines; a delicious XXL ravioli filled with spinach and egg yolk, surrounded by a generous smoked curry butter vivified with fresh herbs; explosive roasted pork belly with perfectly crispy skin served with tender eggplant; before a Mirabelle plum tartlet with sweet honey ice cream. It’s also worth noting that the zakouskis (“hors d’oeuvres” in Russian) are available between 2:30pm and 7:30pm: blood sausage wontons with a sweet chili sauce, mussels with chili and Thai basil, marinated peppers with fromage blanc and za’atar… // D.S.

FEELING THIRSTY? Supernatural bottles: a German white from 2Naturkinder (€6 a glass), a Gard red blend from Nicolas Renaud (€36 a bottle), an Hérault blanc de noirs from Mylène Bru (€42)…

PRICE: À la carte €41-69, zakouskis €10.