Fitzcaraldo

Bagel worshipers can now undertake a pilgrimage to Square Gardette, where the team behind Chambre noire (who are also responsible for Furia, Cave Canaille and Centre Culturel) offer indulgences in the form of coffee, natural wine and round, yeasty treats. They’re distributed to the faithful in this minimalist chapel of a space (polished concrete floors, Formica-topped tables) that rivals even the nearby Notre-Dame-d’Espérance church. Our lunchtime communion featured a golden, homemade bagel with a very small hole in the center, sprinkled with sesame seeds and generously filled upon ordering by chef Tomer Getz Levy, with confit tuna, juicy pickled onions, crunchy cornichons, arugula and dill – or for the vegetarian version, an avalanche of cheddar with all the same veggies and herbs. If you’re just feeling a little peckish, their delicious bagels are available with a single topping (Comté, salted butter or jam), and chocolate-sesame cookies and carrot-ginger cake is also up for grabs. // Yanath Kandal

FEELING THIRSTY? : Perfect homemade hibiscus kombucha (€5 a glass), Terres de Café coffee (drip €3, espresso €2.50) and some carefully chosen bottles of wine, including an Anjou chenin from the Domaine des Sablonnettes (€6 a glass) and Fioretti, a Lot malbec produced by L’Ostal Levant (€21 a bottle, not including the €10 corkage fee).
PRICE: : Bagels €10.50 to €12.50, sweet snacks €3-4.