Restaurant Fugazi (Paris)

© Fugazi

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In Apocalypse Wow (yet another 11th arrondissement production), the wine bar Vertigo FMR has given way to a new wine bar called Fugazi – named after US military slang for GIs who were ambushed during the Vietnam War. This new blockbuster’s plot? A hideout with unfinished walls, globe light fixtures and bouquets of dried flowers, directed by Adrien Vernet (ex-Le Mauri 7) and Benjamin Perrier (the boss of Peco Peco). The night we went, their small plates filled us up and left us wanting more at the same time: gnocchi pan-fried with black garlic butter and shiitake mushrooms; perfectly al dente beef cheek agnolotti parading around in a red wine and preserved lemon sauce; mussels in an ’nduja jus (with bread from Fermentation Générale to sauce it all up) and loads of fresh herbs… Otherwise, for those with heartier appetites, there’s shared cuts of meat like lamb shoulder wrapped in lardo di Colonnata slow-roasted for eight hours, served with roasted new potatoes. On the other hand, there were no desserts in sight – but we didn’t really have room for one anyways. // Gwen Jacquère

Natural wines sourced from all over France: Paar, an Alsatian Pinot blanc from Mélanie Pfister (€7 a glass), Ne Fais Pas Sans Blanc, an Ardèche white from Sylvain Bock (€35 a bottle), La Colline en Flamme, a hard-to-find Saint-Romain Gamay from the Domaine des Pothiers (€32)…
PRICE: Small plates €7-15, shared cuts of meat €38.

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