Chopstick party at Benjamin Perrier’s place! In this tiny bistro (a comblachien stone bar, exposed stone walls, a mango-inspired mural), Yoshiaki Mantani offers up two possibilities on the menu: donburi (rice with pork or smoked herring, for example) with sides (edamame, soba, etc.) at lunch; then 15 suggestions at night. For us: takosu octopus salad (a little chewy) with cucumber seasoned with ponzu sauce; a very generous portion of classic breaded karaage chicken; an original inari – a marinated pillow of tofu filled with flax sprouts and squash…; before a stunning kushiage (a breaded skewer, a house specialty) with goat cheese and honey, which still had us regretting that only one version of their kushiage was on the menu that particular evening. For dessert, there’s a hefty red bean and coconut pudding. // G.D.
FEELING THIRSTY? A bitter Wunder lager (€6 for 330 ml), seven sakes (€6.50 to €10 a glass), an explosive Tokyo Spring cocktail (fermented tea, sake, tonic, lemon juice, €10) and excellent natural wines: Poivre et Sel, a Touraine red from Olivier Lemasson (€27 a bottle); L’Equilibriste, an Ardèche white from Sylvain Bock (€35); Poil de Lièvre, a Saumur blanc from Sébastien Bobinet (€36); or a Côtes-du-Rhône red Cuvée des Galets from the Vignerons d’Estezargues (€5.50) and Grandes Vignes white (€6), both by the glass.
PRICE: Donburi €10 (€16 as the prix-fixe menu at lunch), plates €4-12 (dinner).