After putting Rue du Nil on the Parisian pleasure map with his sophisticated bistro, wine bar and a guilt-free fast food joint, Greg Marchand recently delivered a new Frenchie within the walls of the Grand Pigalle Hotel. In a space decorated by Dorothée Meilichzon (booth seating, blonde wooden tables), he manages the team remotely, who send out the best breakfast egg muffin in all of Paris, before starting all over again for dinner. The night we went, surrounded by a crowd who were seemingly all dressed by Jean Touitou: incredible veal sweetbread nuggets with raw cream and caviar; tender gougère cheese puffs with sumac; gourmet agnolotti with chanterelle mushrooms; and monkfish trail grilled over binchotan charcoal, intensified by kaffir lime and served on ceramic plates by Marion Graux. One disappointing element of our meal? Not being able to taste the mouthwatering Challans duck with honey and spices (which we actually ordered!), or the pecan and nutmeg banoffee, since the staff was overwhelmed – they were surely still figuring things out the night we went… // F.P.
FEELING THIRSTY? A selection of organic wines: sparkling wine from the Château Baraouillet in the Périgord (€7 a glass), an Alsatian Pinot noir from Valentin Zusslin (€10), a Savoie blanc from Mathieu Apffel (€34 a bottle), a Gard Syrah from La Réméjeanne (€44)…
PRICE: À la carte €6-8 (breakfast), €35-56 (dinner).
