After putting Rue du Nil on the Parisian pleasure map with his sophisticated bistro, wine bar and quality fast food joint, Greg Marchand opened up a new Frenchie location at the Grand Pigalle Hotel. In a space decorated by Dorothée Meilichzon (booth seating, blonde wooden tables), he manages the team remotely, who send out the best breakfast egg muffin in all of Paris, before starting over at lunch and then again at dinner with small flavor bombs (bacon scones, gougère cheese puffs made with sheep’s milk tome cheese…) and full-sized plates, like lamb saddle paired with a potato waffle topped with slow-roasted lamb and a stuffed onion. The day we went, we opted for: a creamy oeuf parfait with yuzukosho; tantalizing tagliolini freddi, tied together by a tahini sauce and homemade la-yu, plus white asparagus, broad beans and peanuts; or the classic veal sweetbread nuggets with raw cream and (optional) caviar. // Elisabeth Cachou

FEELING THIRSTY? A selection of organic wines: Jour de Soif, a Bourgueuil red produced by Pierre Gauthier (€9 a glass), Les Plans, a syrah from the Vaucluse (€7), Ondenc Sec, a Tarn white from the Domaine Plageoles (€46 a bottle), Totem, a Savoie mondeuse from Ludovic Archer (€78)… And to go with all that, a few beers whipped up in collaboration with Coalitian Brewing, including a pomegranate and orange blossom pale ale (€7.50 for 330 ml).
PRICE: Set menus €23 (breakfast) and €28-34 (lunch), plates €8-78 (dinner), brunch €37 (Sunday).