restaurant

Le Pantruche

Le Pantruche (Paris)

© Le Pantruche

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The original restaurant of Franck Baranger and Edouard Bobin (who also own Caillebotte, Belle Maison, Le Coucou and Café Mirette) continues winning over SoPi palates with its fully retro Parisian decor: Art Deco curves, mirrored walls, a zinc bar, moleskin benches…. However, the space is nothing like Franck’s cuisine, who takes a cheeky amount of pleasure shaking up bistro classics! The night we went, the €43 prix-fixe menu featured all of the following: delicious pork cheek and scarmoza ravioli, served with oyster mushrooms and savory, all tied together by a creamy broth; generous lamb belly with eggplant caviar, tucked into Greek yogurt with za’atar and samphire – or sea bream fillet with vinegary celeriac mousseline, sesame paste and fish fumet; before an always-fashionable Grand Marnier soufflé with salted caramel. Another option is the €23 prix-fixe lunch menu featuring the dish of the day – that particular day, it was roasted rump steak with creamy polenta, carrot tops and mushroom praline. // Elisabeth Cachou
FEELING THIRSTY? Often conventional, occasionally organic wines: a Chinon vieilles vignes from the Domaine de la Marinière (€7 a glass), a 2022 Burgundy white from the Domaine Ami (€62 a bottle), a 2017 Margaux from the Château Siran (€92)…
PRICE: Prix-fixe menus €23 (lunch), €43-46 (dinner).

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