Magnolia

Does a melody by Claude François come to mind as you step inside this British-inspired gastropub? Maxime Vaudin (who used to work in communications) has entrusted chef Jack Bosco Baker (ex-La Vierge and Robert) with the kitchen at Magnolia, his Parisian take on London’s legendary St. John restaurant. The duo opted for a very pared-back aesthetic (velvet banquettes, wooden tables, some of which are dressed in white tablecloths, high Baumann barstools, dim lighting), creating a lively, buzzing atmosphere fueled by the London-trained chef’s cool, traditional plates: breaded and fried veal brains that feel simultaneously futuristic and nostalgic, served with sauce gribiche and poached leeks; a tartine topped with chanterelle mushrooms in cream sauce and fresh watercress; venison and prune ragù, reminiscent of a beef bourguignon, served with velvety mashed potatoes; tender pork chops with a mustard- and lemon-infused anchovy sauce, served with a damn good dandelion salad…. and some very level-headed desserts, with a slight misstep for the chocolate mousse with olive oil, which was cleverly garnished with caper leaves and fleur de sel, but lacked structure – we preferred the simple frozen parfait studded with crushed pistachios and slices of mandarin and blood orange. // Emma Carron

FEELING THIRSTY? A short and oft-natural wine list, including La Colline En Flamme, a Roanne gamay from the Domaine des Pothiers (€7 a glass), Le Petit Buisson, a Touraine sauvignon from the Puzelats, and Bulle Ton Body, a Jura pet’ nat’ produced by the Domaine des Marnes Blanches (€40 a bottle).
PRICE: : Appetizers €9-18, mains €24-38, desserts €8-10.