What do you get if you divide 228 liters (the volume of a Burgundy wine barrel) by 0.75 liters? It’s the equivalent of 304 bottles, which is to say well below what the Renault brothers (Pierre, who used to work at Vantre, and Louis, who trained on the job) and their friend Robin Lenfant (who used to work at Bollinger) have tucked away in their kingdom of wines. Here, it’s all about the libations, featuring a collection of often-organic bottles without borders, which you can grab from the wood and cast-iron shelves (in the wine shop) or pop open around one of the high tables in the wine bar section for a €10 to €15 corkage fee: a Savoie rosé from Les Ardoisières (€35), a Chénas from Thillardon (€37), a skin-contact Gewurz’ produced by Ginglinger (€51)… Unless you’d rather try one of the wines served by the glass, like Le Mouton Blanc, a Mâcon Chardonnay produced by Delphine and Sébastien Boisseau (€5) or, for something that’s hard to find in the capital, a 2012 Côte-Rôtie from Clusel-Roch (€30) and this Château-Chalon 2021 from Bénédicte and Stéphane Tissot (€28)… Nectars that are even better when served with a few small plates: fresh palourde clams sautéed in parsley and garlic butter; stuffed tomatoes; half-Saint-Félicien cheeses… // Adrien Nouviaire

The bullet-proof bottle: A Marsannay produced by Sylvain Pataille (€35).