Citrons et Huîtres

Lemons and Oysters, the name says it all! This tiny spot docked to the Hôtel Rochechouart is a cross between a neighborhood fish monger’s and a New York oyster bar, with beautiful design by interior architect Marion Mailaender (tiled floors, a stainless-steel bar, mirrors all round, shades of blue). Plus, it has wide-open access to the sidewalk, so you can nibble extremely fresh eats half-inside and half-outside: bowls of whelks and pink shrimp served with a perfect dashi-flavored mayonnaise for dipping; top-quality razor clams from the Morbihan; n°3 Gillardeau oysters tickled by hot sauce, chives and sea beans… Plus a few plates scribbled out in marker on the aforementioned mirrors, which were less impressive than the rest, like sea bream ceviche in which the Paraguayan chef Ismaël Ghanem seems to have utilized his entire pantry – cucumber, spring onions, razor clams, mayo, herb-infused oil, edible flowers, piment d’Espelette… Our advice? Opt for the shellfish! // Gwen Jacquère 

FEELING THIRSTY? : A well-structured glass of muscadet from Éric Chevalier (€7), Flat Nat, a German sparkling wine from Brand Bros at €42, or Drappier Champagne for €78.
PRICE: : Oysters €28-52 a dozen (three and a glass of white wine for €10 during oyster hour, from 6:30pm to 7:30pm), platters €27-95, shellfish €6-10, plates €10-14.