Right near the square Gardette, Lucas Baur de Campos and Ninon Lecomte have teamed up with natural wines and fiery embers to create the atmospheric Brutos (stone and brick walls, ceramic tiled tables, green benches, an open kitchen). On their Argentine parilla, they grill all kinds of good things from the market: gilt-head bream (€23); Normand faux-filet dry aged for 45 days (€98 for two), etc. Or, like the night we went, juicy pork crépinette with chanterelles and haricots verts (€23), along with Angus beef maminha (bottom sirloin)sprinkled in manioc flour (farofa) and served with garlicky homemade fries (€27). And don’t forget about the foreplay to all these braised treats, like the scrumptious tapioca croquettes with a spicy guava sauce (€9), or homemade duck rillettes and pickled radishes on bread toasted on the barbecue (€11). And, to end the meal, plump blackberries atop a decent chocolate mousse (€8). The wine collection is pretty spectacular as well: a white Touraine from Pierre-Olivier Bonhomme (€7 a glass), a red Rhone, Energié, from the Domaine Viret (€27 a bottle) or a Sicilian red, Contadino, from Frank Cornelissen (€42). À la carte €39-61. J.G.