A chill spot on Square Gardette, where people pack in to get their charcoal on! In a space with unfinished brick and stone walls, tiled tables and green banquettes, Brutos exposes the crowd to the blazing fire of Brazilian chef Lucas Baur de Campos (ex-Robuchon), who doesn’t let any meat escape his parilla – and the same goes for the seafood and greens! Served à la carte the night we went: a deep smoked ricotta that cast a spell over the umami-esque cucumber, anchovy and hazelnut salad; coalfish cooked over the embers with aioli and small grilled vegetables – or a Normand sirloin steak dry-aged for 35 days, brilliantly pimped out with chimichurri sauce and homemade fries; before the naked innocence of a strawberry sorbet with fresh basil, to sweeten this rather rough-hewn meal. Or why not opt for some incredible tapas: Parmesan tapioca fritters with a guava and sweet chili sauce; savory pastéis with chorizo, smoked ricotta and wild oregano; homemade flame-charred pita with creamed corn, chanterelles and a chicken jus… // M.J.-D.
FEELING THIRSTY? Natural wines: an Ardèche red from Gérald Oustric (€6.50 a glass) or a Gard red from Alain Allier (€28 a bottle), an Alsatian Syvlaner from Pierre Frick (€37), etc.
PRICE: Tapas €9, à la carte €39-51.