Got a furious desire for comida mexicana and natural wines in the Saint-Ambroise neighborhood? In their neo-taquería cave à manger, with its scratched tomette tile floors, weathered wood and a shop front that lets in the sun, Julio Guerrero (ex-manager of Cicatriz in Mexico City) and Oliver Lomeli (co-owner of Chambre Noire) awaken the gods of masa (corn dough) for a classic taco party! On the evolving menu, vegetables flex their muscles with, for example, a surprising Al Pastor with shiitake mushrooms instead of meat, or a heady taco plastered with sautéed vegetables (squash, pepper), corn and spicy aioli. Fish- and meat-loving diners can get stuck into a lip-smacking pulled pork version or a tuna / guacamole / shoestring fries combo that’s atypical as it is addictive. After all that, you’ll be level C2 in Spanish, guaranteed. // Noël Flantier

FEELING THIRSTY? There’s a German wine invasion, with a number of gems pinched from Chambre Noire: Frauenpower, a pet’ nat’ rosé from Vin de la Gamba, or Piquette from Brand Bros (glass €7, bottles €35-40).

PRICE: Meat tacos €15 for three, veggie tacos €12 for three.