Passages

Housed in an old mustard factory, the restaurant inside Les Ateliers du Vent isn’t lacking any heat! To wake up this spot with an industrial feel (concrete floors, red aluminum framed windows, exposed wires) and where all sorts of artistic utopias are born, you’ll find Hugo Momus (who used to work at Septime and Double Dragon in Paris) and Pierre Le Régent hard at work in the kitchen. On their menu? The day we went, it featured pan con tomate topped with sardine escabeche and fresh basil; a creamy corn polenta mousse hiding a bed of crisp oyster mushrooms, plus arugula and smoked almond salad; and for dessert, a balancing act of bitterness and acidity, a sort of plump tropézienne cake soaked with citrus and Timut pepper syrup, hiding a lemon leaf ganache and candied citrus fruits. And don’t forget about the snacks, which were Japanese-inspired the day we went, like the tamago sandos with oyster mushroom tempura or with egg, miso and fermented cabbage. // Catherine Jamon 

FEELING THIRSTY? : A few wines (Paintball, a Gard grenache from La Ferme du Cade at €5.50, a skin-contact gewürztraminer by the Domaine Goepp at €29 a bottle), pear and blackberry hard cider co-fermented with Calvados from Simon Lemarié (€21) and homemade soft drinks (Apfelsaftschorle or honeyed sobacha, €3.50). 
PRICE: : Set menu €22, snacks €7-12.