The Quartier des Lices is undergoing a makeover, right down to the very bone! Starting with this meat-lover’s shop, the first commercial success and part of a conspiracy brewing in the shadow of Mama Shelter – which has since been joined by a deli take-away, a coffee roasters, a wine shop and Breizh Café. Behind the butcher’s block, you’ll find Aymeric Hurault, who studied international business before taking up a set of knives at Maison Le Bourdonnec and at La Boucherie Cosse in Paris. In his fridges, there’s nothing but top-quality meats, like Breton pork chops from pigs raised on hay, free-range poularde jaune (corn-fed fattened hen) from the Landes, or Normand flank steak dry-aged for four weeks. To go with all that, there’s some impressive charcuterie (homemade duck foie gras from the Southwest, beef and piment d’Espelette rillettes), take-away dishes like you’ll get nowhere else (veal sweetbread vol-au-vents, slow-cooked Quercy lamb saddle) and an insane épicerie corner: Kaïa extra-virgin olive oil, Maison Marc French cornichons, Orléans mustard… // Laszlo Dela

THE HIDDEN GEM: The artisan-made Basque Dohatsu broth, which will take any of your slow-cooked meals to the next level (€9.90/liter).