Restaurant Bombance (Rennes)

© Chris Saulnnier

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“Drink well, eat well” – that’s the plan at this cave à manger in Rennes, run by Breton sommelier Pierre Hollerich (who trained under Ducasse and at Fulgurances) and Parisian chef Gaëtan Coculo (who sharpened his skills at L’Avant-Poste), in the former and much-missed Rewined. Is this new joint able to make you forget all the good times at the old natural wine bar, seated at the undulating bar or around one of the rustic tables? Definitely, judging by their selection of bottles… and plates served Friday at lunch: light and airy fried oyster mushrooms in a buckwheat flour batter, brought back down to earth by a delightful grilled onion skin mayonnaise; perfectly rosy pork fillet served with a creamy cauliflower purée, roasted cauliflower and a punchy olive and plum condiment; before beetroot and chili ice cream, surrounded by pickles made from the same vegetable, plus stewed rhubarb, raw cream and a crispy gavotte cookie. At night, shared plates perform alongside the prix-fixe menu: barbecued zucchini with smoked yogurt and tarragon; glazed carrots with sea urchin cream and candied kumquat; yellow pollack accras and spicy mayonnaise for dipping… // Marie-Louise Terrasse

FEELING THIRSTY? : Wines that have been vinified naturally: Elle Est Pas Bulle La Vie, a Loire chenin from the Bretons (€7.50 a glass), Entras, a côtes-de-gascogne red produced by the Domaine Entras (€5 a glass), or Rougissant, a pinot noir from Jeux de Vins (€35 a bottle).
PRICE: : Set menus €18-23 (Friday lunch), prix-fixe menu €35 and shared plates €7-14 (dinner).

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