Sandwiched up against Ima, his fine dining establishment, Julien Lemarié and his impressive Asia-focused CV, opened his second establishment inspired by Japan, painted deep green and boasting solid hardwood floors. For us the day we went for lunch: miso soup with sweet potato and red onion for added color, so delicious that it would have Miss Tokyo noisily slurping it up; thrilling donburi prepared with a bed of steamed rice, sautéed monkfish, grilled cauliflower, raw radishes and endives all in the same bowl. For dessert, high gastronomy met affordable prices with the silky embrace of bitter chocolate and smoked beets. At night, the same plates take on fusion flavors: lentil and gomasio hummus; mackerel cooked over a wood fire, with fennel and seaweed jam; rhubarb cheesecake. // Renaud Fugeo

FEELING THIRSTY? Grapes and strong emotions in a wine cellar that’s focused on mother nature: Magic de Juju, a Loire white from the Domaine Mosse, L’Alba, a Roussillon red from Jean-Louis Tribouley (€6 a glass), Coeur de Raisin, a Muscadet from Marc Pesnot (€27 a bottle), Cuvée du Chat, a Beaujolais red from the Château Cambon (€37).
PRICE: Set menu €22-30 (weekday lunch), small plates €6-17 (dinner and Saturday lunch).