Indigènes

In the former railroad workers’ neighborhood, up popped Clément Rouault’s royal blue shop, where just a few months prior a slightly shabby pink façade once stood. After working in entertainment and communications, he dove headfirst into the wine world, under the influence of Olivier Cochard at Histoires de Vins in Rennes. At his cute new natural wine shop with light wooden shelves and exposed brick from the former bread ovens, the space is filled with libations that celebrate indigenous yeasts and local distilleries. As for the wines, there are some solid choices, with a clear preference for the Loire, and even Burgundy productions (the Puzelat, Valette and Vaillant families, among others), alongside other gems like Awa, a pinot gris from the Domaine Les Terres Bleues from Xavière Hardy (€20.50), or Murmure De l’Eau, a sparkling Ardèche wine from Étienne Seignovert (€18.50). Other house curiosities include: Doug coffee liqueur, Journey beer from the Merlin brewery (a mandarin and Laos pepper gose beer), Frênette, an organic sparkling drink made with ash leaves collected from the woods in Ille-et-Vilaine by Baies Sauvages & Cie, a co-fermented apple and plum hard cider by the micro-cidery Noviomagus in the Pays d’Auge… and a few savory treats (breadsticks, sun-dried tomatoes, etc.), which you can take home with you! // Ari Beaux

THE BULLET-PROOF BOTTLE: Aux Arbres, a beautiful unfiltered gamay grape juice by Tristan Rampon (€20 a bottle).