Best sophistroquet of 2018
Under the benevolent auspices of Pols Potten feng shui furniture, epicurean diners seated around the ceramic bar contemplate Julien Lemarié’s honest cuisine . We’d already taken note of the chef working for Gordon Ramsay in London, Troisgros in Tokyo and the Raffles Hotel in Singapour. Ima’s (which means “now” in Japanese) chill personnel aim to magnify the present moment. On the Saturday we went for lunch, the menu was spread out over six courses: graphically composed wild asparagus and mackerel with a wild garlic condiment; divine line-caught smoked John Dory with spinach atop a beetroot emulsion; an egg buried under ground potatoes and nori like a pagan ritual; secretive Iberian pork hidden by a toasted poppy seed breading and paired with scallions and a celery purée; before a combo of mango sorbet, chili, lemongrass mousse and, to finish, a melt-in-your-mouth milk and plum vinegar ice cream buddying up with matcha and praline cake. // A.Be.
FEELING THIRSTY? There’s a natural wine list that strikes a balance between French and foreign wines: a Muscadet-Sèvre-et-Maine from the Domaine de Belle Vue (€5.50 a glass), a smooth Sclavos white from Cephalonia (€40 a bottle) or a Rhone red from Jean-Michel Stéphan (€90).
PRICE: Menus €30 (lunch), €70 and €90 (dinner and Saturday at lunch, food and wine pairings + €40 and €50).