Chez P'tit Louis

Chez P’tit Louis has changed quite a bit! A pale green facade, mosaic tile floors, bistro chairs… Of its previous life as a tired old bistro, all that remains is the name and the engraved wooden napkin rings. And this new neighborhood spot already has a loyal customer base. Running things these days is a group of friends: Elsa Trémet, Simon Commault and Yann-Éric Toutain (the latter two also own La Mirlitantouille, and worked in Paris under Thierry Breton and Giovanni Passerini). From the tiny kitchen that opens out onto the bar, Théo Vrielinck and Agathe Fiard send out excellent plates. The day we went for lunch: crispy zucchini tempura and addictive eggplant cooked in dashi (incredible!); breaded line-caught hake, chard braised on the plancha with the perfect amount of garlic and lemon, served with tartar sauce; and for the finale, an exquisite Valrhona chocolate marquise with salted caramel and crushed cookies. // Catherine Jamon 

FEELING THIRSTY? Natural wines: a taut Saumur blanc from Le Pas Saint Martin (€6 a glass), Les Petits Cailloux, an Anjou red from Stéphane Rocher (€27 a bottle) or a refreshing Melon from La Soeur Cadette (€33). 
PRICE: Set menus €15-19 (lunch), plates €6-15 (dinner).