Peska

In the landlocked city of Rennes, Clémentine Guillois has brought the sea to her mini Mediterranean bistro where, in keeping with the winds and tides, Pauline Iafrate cooks vivifying stories of nautical adventure. In a space adorned with framed fish drawings on the walls, a long banquette, colorful velvet cushions and medieval wood rafters, the night we went we dined on: toasted focaccia, as light as a cloud under a flurry of wild herbs from the intertidal zone and small, marinated mackerels; golden sole meunière with tender leeks, crisp fennel, fermented rhubarb and a jus de poisson. And we resurfaced with a Botticellian pavlova with homemade faisselle cheese, strawberries, floral meringue, sage and wild herb jus. // Renaud Fuego

FEELING THIRSTY? A pirate’s bounty of low-intervention wines: Cru Monnières from the Domaine Batard Langelier (€6 a glass), Loire Mon Tout Rouge, a Pineau d’Aunis from Olivier Bellanger (€5.50), Pierres Sauvages, an Alsatian white from Matthieu Deiss (€29 a bottle), Grain et Granit, a Régnié from Charly Thevenet (€33).
PRICE: À la carte €35-42.