Cope (Rennes)

© Cope

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The now-closed Bercail has found some worthy successors! Running Cope (a contraction of Clément Couture and David Pellerin’s last names) is a brilliant duo – the two friends used to work in the kitchens of IMA (Julien Lemarié) before taking over this classy, contemporary joint alongside the talented Agathe Robert (a sommelier and barista). On the plates, only very good things, from snack time through dinner, sourced as locally as possible! The night we went, we enjoyed: tomato water granita pimped out with balsamic caramel, fresh tomatoes, smoked oil, fermented tomato ketchup and pickled watermelon; truly delightful eggplant with fermented apricots and peanuts, plunged into a soy, ginger and garlic chicken broth; unbeatable flash-seared yellow pollack and beets prepared as purée, pickles and poached in broth, plus beet greens, cherries and a lemon chili jelly; before a dangerously good dollop of basil-infused mascarpone atop arugula sorbet, peach compote, fresh peach and some really delicious homemade granola. At snack time, there’s fig tart and fromage blanc, or pavlova with nectarine and charred bread. // Catherine Jamon 

FEELING THIRSTY? : Organic green tea with rose petals from Tea and Ty (€4), Félix coffee (espresso €1.80, latte €3.80, frappé €4.50) and wines that tend to be natural: Pierre à Feu, a crystalline chenin from the Vendôme producer Patrice Colin (€7 a glass), Haute Côt(e) de Fruit, a gourmet malbec from Fabien Jouves (€32 a bottle) and Les Creisses, an intense Languedoc red from Philippe Chesnelong (€40). 
PRICE: : Set menus €40 and €60, food and wine pairings €20-30, student menus €5 (drink + pastry in the afternoon), pastries €2.50 to €6 in the afternoon. 

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