Warning: this establishment was tested before the reign of Covid 19… Certain information may no longer be up to date in regards to the current situation: hours, menu, prices…
Bertrand Grébaut, Le Fooding Guide’s 2012 Man of the Hour
At their elegant faubourgeois spot that’s dressed entirely in wood, iron and flowers, naturophiles Bertrand Grébaut and Théophile Pourriat stun the planet’s most sophisticated palates. The former, initiated in the Arpège school of thought, does so with superb cuisine that appears much simpler than it really is. Meanwhile the latter masters the dining room and dolls out bottles that’ll have you weak in the knees. The day we went for lunch, the five-course tasting menu (€60) featured: a very vegetal cucumber water with two types of raspberries and fresh zucchini as a prelude; exuberant line-caught raw tuna with smoked egg yolk; extremely flavorful dehydrated cherry tomatoes moistened by a little buffalo milk; incredible fried eggplant in a bouillabaisse broth; a umami-esque smoked guinea fowl lacquered in miso with jus de viande that’ll have you licking the plate clean; before a delicate poached peach with yogurt sorbet and thyme crumble for the fatal finale. // F.P.
FEELING THIRSTY? There’s plenty to celebrate the feast with: a thirst-quenching homemade peach-verbena-fig infusion (€3.50), Ciderman hard cider from Cyril Zangs (€8.50 to 330 ml), an intense Loire red from the Mosse (€8 a glass), a formidable Georgian orange wine called Pheasant’s Tears (€9), a Côte-du-Jura white, Fleur de Savagnin, from Labet (€62 a bottle), a Berry red, Le Bois Guyon, from François Saint-Lô (€66).
PRICE: Menus €60 (lunch) and €95 (dinner), food-wine pairings + €45 (lunch) and + €60 (dinner).