Named after the restaurant in the classic Louis de Funès film Grand Restaurant, Bertrand Grébaut and Théophile Pourriat’s private lair delights the palates of the most demanding diners. The former cooks up incredible, highly vegetable-based dishes, while the latter pampers clients (be they celebrities or otherwise) in the country chic dining room (waxed concrete floors, untreated wooden furniture, flowers from Arôm, a windowed wall, metal suspension lamps…). The day we went for lunch, the five-course carte blanche menu featured: flamboyant roasted ricotta wrapped in a fig leaf with fig-infused oil, paired with a sourdough za’atar cracker; amazing smoked Albacore tuna from Saint-Jean-de-Luz marinated with seaweed, paired with tangy berries (cherries, jostaberries and blackberries) and sour cream; sublime semi-dehydrated tomatoes sprinkled with mustard seeds, in a bouillabaisse broth dotted with tarragon oil; before a lesson in luxurious sobriety with a poached peach delicately fragranced with rose petals and fresh smashed raspberries, peppery crushed meringue and a sheep’s milk frozen yogurt. // N.K.

FEELING THIRSTY? A litany of natural wines: Dinavolino, an orange wine from Emilie-Romagne (€9 a glass), Le Rouchefer, a Loire Chenin from Mosse (€60 a bottle), a Black Pinot from Yann Durieux in Burgundy (€102).

PRICE: Menus €60 (lunch) and €95 (dinner), food and wine pairings + €46-60.