Pianovins (Paris)

© Pauline Chatelan

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After providing asylum to Passerini’s Rino and Daniel Baratier’s Les Déserteurs, 46 Rue Trousseau is now housing a tiny bistro (blonde wooden tables, grey banquettes) under the leadership of seasoned chef Michel Roncière, who worked under Guy Savoy for almost 30 years. These days, hetinkers together anti-fashionable menus with an insane amount of precision, like the four-course waltz the day we went for lunch: sumptuous sardines from Saint-Gilles-Croix-de-Vie marinated in lime and dressed with a splash of balsamic vinegar and a sprinkling of mustard and beet greens; classy Vendée duck foie gras mi-cuit with a sunchoke cream and toasted Piedmont hazelnuts; a subtle sea bream fillet with coco de Paimpol beans and chive oil; before an intense plum clafoutis, which we never should have been able to finish, but did so anyways! // O.J.

FEELING THIRSTY? Ask Eric Mancio for advice, Michel’s partner (ex-Guy Savoy as well): a Chiroubles from Pauline Passot (€7 a glass), a macerated Sicilian wine from Aldo Viola (€46 a bottle), a Jura Chardonnay from the Domaine Overnoy (€49)…

PRICE: Menus €24-34 (weekday lunch), €49 and €64.

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