Pianovins (Paris)

© Pauline Chatelan

  • Date
  • share

After providing asylum to Passerini’s Rino and Daniel Baratier’s Les Déserteurs, 46 Rue Trousseau is now housing a tiny bistro (blonde wooden tables, grey banquettes) under the leadership of seasoned chef Michel Roncière, who worked under Guy Savoy for almost 30 years. These days, hetinkers together anti-fashionable menus with an insane amount of precision, like the four-course waltz the day we went for lunch: sumptuous sardines from Saint-Gilles-Croix-de-Vie marinated in lime and dressed with a splash of balsamic vinegar and a sprinkling of mustard and beet greens; classy Vendée duck foie gras mi-cuit with a sunchoke cream and toasted Piedmont hazelnuts; a subtle sea bream fillet with coco de Paimpol beans and chive oil; before an intense plum clafoutis, which we never should have been able to finish, but did so anyways! // O.J.

FEELING THIRSTY? Ask Eric Mancio for advice, Michel’s partner (ex-Guy Savoy as well): a Chiroubles from Pauline Passot (€7 a glass), a macerated Sicilian wine from Aldo Viola (€46 a bottle), a Jura Chardonnay from the Domaine Overnoy (€49)…

PRICE: Menus €24-34 (weekday lunch), €49 and €64.

The very first Le Fooding Belgium guide!

Le Fooding’s brand-new, unique and totally collector-worthy Belgium guide is a gold mine of hot spots, featuring 400 addresses scattered across Wallonia, Flanders and Brussels. Over the magazine’s 164 pages, you’ll discover a slew of new establishments, like the latest hard cider bar worth checking out, alongside well-established institutions, including a tavern opened 250 years ago, plus seven saucy long-form articles, all of which are illustrated by the crème de la crème of Belgian artists…

2021 Le Fooding guide frontcover

Le Fooding is a print and digital guide to all the restaurants, chefs, bars, stylish hotels and B&Bs that make up the “taste of the times,” plus an annual awards list for new establishments across France, a series of gastronomic events, a tool that allow you to make reservations at some fantastic bistros, and an agency specialized in event planning, content production and consulting… In short, something to keep you on your toes at all times!

Fooding® is a registered trademark.