“That which is well thought out is a breeze to cook!” That could well be Eric Mancio and Michel Roncière’s motto, the tontons flingueurs with 25 years of experience each working for Guy Savoy. At their new restaurant Pianovins, the two friends are taking a neo-classical adventure with gentle, erudite and occasionally pompous cuisine, in the famous mini-bistro that was occupied successively by Rino and then Les Déserteurs. And the proof could be found on the four-course score (€49), prepared by Michel. The night we went: boiled white asparagus with a striking espuma, a soft-boiled egg (pointlessly sliced open by the waiter tableside) and a slice of pan-fried pork belly; sculptural scallops glistening with browned butter in a delightful celery root and fennel cream; 24-carat duck breast perfectly paired with roasted eggplant and a far-reaching reduction; then an apple-pear clafoutis and cinnamon ice cream – just incredible! For wandering thirsts, the impressive wine list offers asylum: a Languedoc white from Mylène Bru (€5.50 a glass), a moving orange Friuli-Venezia Giulia from Zidarich (€9.50), a splendid Arbois from the Domaine de la Tournelle (€43 a bottle), or a godsend from the Domaine Olivier Cousin in the Loire (€30), etc. Set menus €30-49 (lunch), €49-64 (dinner). // A.A.