Clamato is the seafood cabana from sea dogs Bertrand Grébaut and Théophile Pourriat (Septime). But a word to the wise! If you want a taste of the incredible briny deliveries from Concarneau, Île d’Yeu or even Saint-Jean-de-Luz, you’d better arrive early! They don’t take reservations here, and because of this, all the Parisian small fry squeezes in as soon as it opens, determined to spend an enjoyable moment at this spot with a certain rough-around-the-edges elegance (a wooden ceiling, a few moss green accents, vintage furniture…). The night we went, seated at the bar, the sea spray was whipping about: an oligarchic-worthy deviled egg topped with caviar; lively half spider crab fresh from the fish tank; incredible eggplant with cashew paste and trout roe; umami-esque meagre ceviche with apricots, carrot jus and cilantro; and to end the meal, a fresh blackberry-Savagnin-fig leaf sorbet, served with roasted figs – or, better yet, the legendarily Instagrammable “Clamatarte,” a maple syrup tartelet topped with whipped cream. // F.P.
FEELING THIRSTY? Don’t sweat it! There’s a superb selection of natural wines chosen by Théophile Pourriat which go down easy: an Arbois-Pupillin white from Fonteneille (€8.50 a glass), a Beaujolais-Villages red from Lapalu (€6.50), a Gaillac white from Plageoles (€38 a bottle), a macerated Vej bianco antico from Podere Pradarolo (€50)…
PRICE: Plates €8-31.