Café du Coin
Best corner café of 2018
The good life doesn’t require much. All you need is for Florent Ciccoli (Jones, Le Bien Venu) to wake up in a good mood and meet up with his friend Greg Back (Pères Populaires, Orillon Bar) for the lunchtime shift at the Café du Coin, and it’s on! The space? A quaint bistro with original tiling, a brass-topped bar, unfinished walls and green plants – the kind of place you would typically go only hoping for a drink… But here, you can raise your expectations! It all kicks off with a Petit Sauvignon from the Domaine Chevalier in the Loire (€3), thrown off its axis by a pizzetta oozing with melted mozzarella, mushrooms and nettle leaves – or some delicious smoked mackerel sprinkled with labneh, almonds and red orach. Followed by bonito on a bed of cauliflower, under a tantalizing mess of telline clams and chard, a far cry from everyday bistro cuisine! And don’t forget about the excellent dessert: a delicious pine nut tart with gwell ice cream (a type of Breton yogurt made from unpasteurized fresh milk from Pie Noir cows). At night, hurry back for some of the shared plates (3 oysters from Jean-Noël Yvon in the Morbihan for €7, anchovies €9, miniature pizzas from €5 to €8…) and natural wines: a Pinot Noir from Alsace (€4 a glass), a Viognier from Meryl Croizier in the Ardèche (€5.50), etc. Set menu: €12-19 (lunch), small plates: €5-9. // P.-H.B.