Jones

What is Jones’ secret recipe for staying in the game for all these years? Reinventing itself each time a new chef takes over the kitchens… This time around, the radiant dive brought to you by Florent Ciccoli (the man behind Café du Coin and Cheval d’Or) is being run by Italian chef Riccardo Ferrante (Solina), who is throwing his heart and soul into the place (and even putting a little skin in the game!). Following a makeover with reclaimed wares (broken tiles, a blonde wood bar, intentionally unfinished stone walls), this bistrattoria fits him like a glove! The night we went, we ordered all of the following à la carte: crispy cacio e pepe arancini that he must have nabbed from Mount Olympus; an incredible Caesar salad with radishes, pink and red radicchio and orange slices drizzled in orange blossom vinegar; bucatini alla puttanesca with metaphysical umami notes, combining olive pesto, capers, anchovies, tomatoes and chilies; before a final showdown between the dessert and the cheese courses, with pear-sorrel sorbet, poached pear, sorrel leaves and a sprinkling of pecorino cheese coming in for the win. // Renaud Fuego

FEELING THIRSTY? The wine collection, which was assembled by Florent’s business partner Damien Lacour, has gusto and fine bottles of wine in equal measure: an Alsatian Pinot blanc from Yann Durrmann, a Roussillon Syrah produced by France Crispeels (€6 a glass, for both wines), a Gard Chardonnay from the Domaine Lous Grezes (€38 a bottle)…
PRICE: Aperitivo €6-10, small plates €9-16, cheeses and desserts €8-10.