Another NWB (natural wine bar) in the 11th! Wine lovers Jérôme Beffy (ex-La Rennaissance) and Matthieu Bellaiche (ex-Café de la Nouvelle Mairie) have set up shop in a tiny bistro-bar with white stone walls and a gigantic wine fridge. Inside it, you’ll find some tempting bottles, purring at you, just waiting to be adopted: a highly drinkable Pinot noir from Rietsch (€4.50 a glass), a gourmet white from Kumpf & Meyer (€5), a vibrating blood red Loire from Jousset (€32 a bottle), and a juicy Catalan from La Mas Candi (€40)…. On opening night, everything felt a little on the fly, but spirits were high! Energetic dishes were prepared as best possible in the small bar: a rich mushroom cream with an oeuf parfait and slivers of chorizo (€8); hand-cut dry-aged steak tartare that was judiciously under seasoned (€10); Cul Noir boudin and roasted vitelotte potatoes (€15)… Hint, hint! Hang around after dinner service, as the feasting continues over tartines (bone marrow and mustard; Calabrian ‘nduja, smoked mozzarella and freshly made honey-hazelnut pesto, €6-8) until 1:30am! No dessert. À la carte €12-25. // A.A.