Tarántula 

Let’s taco about Emmanuel Peña Treviño (ex-El Taco Olímpico and El Nopal), who’s crafting such carefully sourced cocina with a healthy dose of grinta, and raising the bar with his posh tacos. Within the walls of what used to be Le Petit Keller – the legendary Parisian bistro has traded in its Japanese past for some moodier, spicier late-night vibes –, the candlelit space with black and white checkerboard tile floors, a curated mezcal selection behind the bar and a Latin American playlist all sets the tone for a seriously exciting Mexican menu: hallucinogenic wild mushroom tacos made on corn tortillas, featuring both spicy sautéed chanterelles and oyster mushroom tempura, under a generous heap of fresh herbs and grated Parmesan; a devilishly delicious roasted onion glazed in fiery charred chile güero (yellow chili) sauce; a juicy, slow-roasted half chicken, with skin more golden than Donald T himself, bathed in lemony japone chili butter sauce with three corn tortillas served on the side; and to round out the meal, caramel and olive oil flan topped with Chantilly cream and crispy fried rosemary. But the end of the night, the bill had skyrocketed and had us feeling a little watery-eyed…// Philo Sale-Ami

FEELING THIRSTY? : There’s plenty to quench your thirst, from wine (À Toi Nous, an Ardèche red from Andréa Calek, €7 a glass, Vino di Fognano, a skin-contact wine from Paolo Foppiani in Emilia-Romagna, €42 a bottle), to a dozen of mezcals and chipotle liqueurs (€7-22 for 40 ml) or margaritas (€12-13) and UMÀ sodas (green tea, rooibos, lemonade, ginger beer, etc., €7 for 250 or 330 ml).
PRICE: : À la carte €50-75.