Vintage yellow tiling, old-fashioned refrigerators…. Apart from the “Chevaline” sign that was modified to read “CheZaline” to represent the change of ownership to Delphine Zampetti in 2012, there are few exterior signs of renovation at 85 rue de la Roquette. But you won’t find any more horsemeat on the menu of this former horse butcher shop. Instead, simply put, it’s one of the best lunchtime menus in Paris, which you can savor there (three tables on the terrace, five seats inside) or take to go: classic round bun or crispy Landemaine baguette sandwiches filled with Prince de Paris ham, chorizo, Saint-Nectaire, Fourme d’Ambert… €5 for one ingredient, €5.50 for two); sandwiches with cooked preparations, either seafood (bonito, egg, Basque chilies, tapenade, lettuce), vegetarian (zucchini, goat cheese, pesto) or regional versions (Morteau sausage with sauce gribiche and pickled cabbage); mouthwatering salads (pot-au-feu-style chicken, tangy celery root tabbouleh, languorous caponata, bonito escabèche…); and for dessert, an old-fashioned and memorable vanilla-lemon rice pudding or apple crumble. And to stay hydrated? Patrick Font juice or Philomenn beer from Brittany (€4). Sandwiches €5 to €8.50, salads €4, dish of the day €10, desserts €5. // N.K.