The Renaissance is dead, long live the Renaissance! It’s a royal revival for this century-old institution near Voltaire metro, brilliantly revived by Carina Soto Velásquez and Joshua Fontaine (Candelaria, Le Mary Celeste). They’ve kept the iconic red neon crowning and those infinity mirrors in all their glory, but added a freshly scraped wall fresco, polished wooden tables and a chic marble-topped bar. And to tie it all together, there’s traditional bistro fare done just right by chef Min Wou Choi (ex-Le Dauphin and the now-closed Saturne): baby artichokes splashed in a peppery vinaigrette; buttery pan-fried ceps; Iberian pork rack in pink perfection, glistening in its juices and served with wilted chard and half a roast onion, with meltingly soft layers and beautifully charred edges; a seasonal vegetable vol-au-vent (carrots, button mushrooms, turnips) – mouthwatering, yet a tad on the stingy side; and for the sweet finale, a classic floating island, with chewy meringue atop a wonderfully silky crème anglaise. The day we went for lunch, scrawled on the chalkboard menu: a selection of cold starters (beet salad with vinaigrette, lemony tabbouleh, diced mixed veg), beef and Guinness stew, and burnt Basque cheesecake to finish. On top of that, come for a savory breakfast (tartines with Prince de Paris ham, egg and Comté cheese) or all-day snacks (garlic piquillo peppers, fuet dry-cured sausage, prawn cocktail…), all served on paper placemats. Long live the Renaissance! // Angela Dolu

FEELING THIRSTY? Au natural, of course: Cyprès De Toi by the Fond Cyprès estate in Aude (€7 a glass); Le Clau, a Rhône ugni blanc from Romain Le Bars (€44 a bottle); and Se Kwa Sa?, a Jura red blend from Domaine Buronfosse (€52). As well as a mini Dry Martini (€8 for 40 ml), Guinness (€9 for a pint) and digestifs galore, including an 18-year-old Jura pomace brandy from the Tissots (€13 for 40 ml) and an armagnac from Domaine d’Aurensan (€15).

PRICE: Set menu €23 (lunch), à la carte €35-55, breakfast and snacks €5-12.