Iñaki Aizpitarte’s marble-laden den (designed by architects Rem Koolhaas and Clément Blanchet) and tapas joint distinguishes itself from the mother house (the neighboring Le Chateaubriand) by rolling out little Iberian wonders. The night we went, served directly at the central bar: a creamy helping of potatoes and crab; a lively meagre and onion ceviche; delicious txangurro-style spider crab (stuffed in its shell); plump little Iberian ham croquetas; juicy pork belly that was a little too salty, served with green vegetables; followed by a creamy buttermilk ice cream, or a well-made lemon tart. And what about lunch? There’s soup for everyone: fish ragù; phô-style soup (broth with green peppercorn beef, rice vermicelli noodles and Chinese cabbage); tomato tourin (ricotta, coco de Paimpol beans, lovage oil…). // N.K.

FEELING THIRSTY? There’s a handful of sulfite-free wines to choose from: a Jura Chardonnay from the Domaine de la Tournelle (€9 a glass), a Chinon red from Luc Sébille (€6), Thésée, a Sauvignon from Touraine produced by Pierre Olivier Bonhomme (€40 a bottle), a Tavel from Nicolas Renaud (€47)…. And if you’ve got something to brag about, a blanc de blancs Champagne from Jacques Selosse (€230)…

PRICE: Soups €13-15 (lunch), plates €4-20, desserts €7-9 (dinner).